Expert Sewer Line Repair & Replacement

Sewer problems can get ugly fast. Our job is to stop the damage and keep it clean.

Let me tell you a little clogged sewer line story. I was 11 and standing in a San Francisco garage underneath a sewer line running across the garage ceiling. The plumber I was riding along with, Norm, was standing at the other end of the garage. He grabbed his hammer and hit that old 4” clogged up cast iron sewer pipe and it opened up all the way down on me. I was drenched in sewage and shards of cast iron. He laughed thinking he was teaching me a lesson of sorts, but it was morning and he had to ride around the city all day with me like that. That was my only consolation.

Today, we rely on real diagnostics and proven methods, so we can fix the problem with as little disruption as possible.

Call (707) 200-8350 and we’ll figure out what’s going on with your sewer line.

What to Do Right Now

Before we arrive, here’s how to minimize damage:

• Sewage backing up? Stop using water in the home—no showers, laundry, or toilets.
• Only one bathroom? Call before it overflows. Don’t keep flushing.
• Sewage in the house? Keep kids and pets away from contaminated areas.
• Smell sewer gas? Open windows. If it’s strong, leave the house.

Sewer problems don’t get better on their own. The sooner we diagnose it, the less damage you’ll have.

Warning Signs Inside

• Multiple slow drains — When more than one fixture drains slowly, it’s usually the main line
• Gurgling sounds — Air trapped by a blockage escaping through fixtures
• Sewage backup — The obvious one. Usually starts in the lowest fixture.
• Sewer smell — Gas escaping from a damaged or blocked line
• Toilet bubbles when you run water elsewhere — Pressure from a blocked line

One slow drain is usually a branch line issue. Multiple slow drains or backups point to the main sewer line.

Warning Signs Outside

• Wet spots in the yard — Sewage leaking underground
• Unusually green patches — Sewage is fertilizer (gross but true)
• Sinkholes or depressions — Soil washing away around a broken pipe
• Foundation cracks — Water undermining the foundation over time
• Rodent or insect problems — They’re attracted to sewer line breaks

If you’re seeing signs outside, the problem has been developing for a while. Don’t wait—it only gets worse.

Common Causes

• Tree roots — The #1 cause. Roots seek water and nutrients, and your sewer line has both.
• Age and deterioration — Cast iron corrodes. Orangeburg (tar paper) collapses. Clay cracks.
• Bellied pipe — A section sinks, creating a low spot where waste collects.
• Offset joints — Pipes shift over time, creating gaps where roots enter and waste catches.
• Grease buildup — Years of grease narrowing the pipe until it blocks.
• Foreign objects — “Flushable” wipes, feminine products, and other things that shouldn’t be flushed.

Understanding the cause matters because it determines the right fix.

Pipe Materials We See

Different pipe materials have different failure modes:

• Cast iron — Corrodes from the inside out. Common in homes built before 1970.
• Orangeburg — Tar paper pipes that collapse. Built 1940s-1970s. Always needs replacement.
• Clay — Cracks and allows root intrusion. Common in older homes.
• ABS/PVC — Modern plastic. Durable but can crack from ground movement or improper installation.

We’ll tell you what you have and what condition it’s in.

Our Diagnostic Process

We don’t guess—we look. Here’s how:

1. We ask questions — When did it start? Which fixtures are affected? Any recent changes?
2. Camera inspection — A video camera down the line shows us exactly what’s happening.
3. Locating — We pinpoint where the problem is so we’re not digging blindly.
4. Assessment — We explain what we found, show you the video, and discuss options.

The camera inspection is the key. It shows us roots, cracks, bellies, offsets, and buildup. No guessing, no unnecessary digging.

What the Camera Tells Us

• Location — Exactly where the problem is (depth and distance from cleanout)
• Cause — Roots, collapse, offset, buildup, or foreign object
• Pipe condition — Is this a spot problem or is the whole line failing?
• Best repair method — Spot repair, lining, or replacement

We’ll show you the video. You’ll see what we see. Then we’ll explain your options and give you honest recommendations.

Spot Repair

When the damage is localized and the rest of the line is in good shape.

• Dig down to the damaged section
• Cut out the bad section
• Replace with new pipe
• Backfill and restore

Best for: Single point of failure, offset joint, localized root damage. Not ideal for: Systemic problems, multiple damaged areas, deteriorating pipe material.

Pipe Lining (Trenchless)

A resin-coated liner is inserted into the existing pipe and cured in place, creating a new pipe inside the old one.

Advantages:

• No digging (or minimal digging)
• Preserves landscaping
• Faster than traditional replacement
• 50+ year lifespan

Limitations:

• Pipe must be structurally intact enough to support the liner
• Doesn’t work for collapsed or severely bellied pipes
• Slightly reduces pipe diameter

We’ll tell you honestly if lining is appropriate for your situation.

Pipe Bursting (Trenchless)

A bursting head is pulled through the old pipe, breaking it apart while simultaneously pulling new pipe into place.

Advantages:

• Minimal digging (just access pits)
• Can upsize the pipe
• Works on collapsed pipes
• New pipe, not a liner

Limitations:

• Requires access pits at each end
• Not ideal if there are L-turns or multiple direction changes
• Costs more than lining

Full Replacement (Traditional)

Sometimes the old-fashioned way is the right way.

• Excavate along the pipe route
• Remove the old pipe
• Install new pipe with proper slope
• Backfill and restore

When it makes sense:

• Pipe is too damaged for lining or bursting
• Multiple direction changes
• Bellied sections that need re-grading
• When you want to upsize significantly

Yes, it’s more disruptive. But sometimes it’s the right answer.

What Affects Pricing

We give upfront pricing before any work begins. Here’s what affects the quote:

• Diagnosis — Camera inspection to understand the problem
• Repair method — Spot repair vs. lining vs. bursting vs. replacement
• Length of line — More pipe = more cost
• Depth — Deeper pipes require more excavation
• Access — Under a driveway or deck is harder than open yard
• Restoration — What needs to be put back (landscaping, concrete, etc.)

Typical timeframes:

• Camera inspection: 1-2 hours
• Spot repair: 1 day
• Pipe lining: 1-2 days
• Pipe bursting: 1-2 days
• Full replacement: 2-5 days depending on length and access

Repair vs. Replace

Repair usually makes sense when:

• Single point of failure
• Rest of the line is in good condition
• Pipe material is durable (PVC, ABS)
• Problem is accessible

Replacement usually makes sense when:

• Multiple problem areas
• Pipe material is failing (Orangeburg, deteriorated cast iron)
• Recurring problems despite repairs
• You’re already doing major landscaping or construction

We’ll give you honest advice. A spot repair on a line that’s failing throughout is just delaying the inevitable.

Preventing Sewer Problems

What you can do:

• Don’t flush “flushable” wipes (they’re not really flushable)
• Don’t pour grease down drains
• Know where your cleanout is
• Consider root treatment if you have trees near the line

Professional maintenance:

• Camera inspection every few years (especially for older homes)
• Hydro-jetting to clear buildup before it becomes a blockage
• Root treatment for lines with recurring root intrusion

Catching problems early saves thousands compared to emergency repairs.

Why Homeowners Choose GoFlow for Sewer Repair

• We diagnose first — Camera inspection before we recommend anything
• We show you — You see the video, you understand the problem
• Honest recommendations — The right fix, not the most expensive one
• Trenchless options — When they’re appropriate
• Upfront pricing — Before we start any work
• We clean up — Your yard won’t look like a war zone when we leave

Want to know what to watch out for with other plumbers? Plumber red flags

Where We Serve

We provide sewer line repair and replacement throughout Sonoma and Marin Counties.

Region pages:

• Sonoma County plumbing
• Marin County plumbing

Related services:

• Drain cleaning — For branch line clogs
• Emergency plumbing — For sewage backups
• Leak detection — For water line issues

How do I know if it’s the main sewer line or just a drain?

If multiple fixtures are slow or backing up, it’s probably the main line. If it’s just one sink or toilet, it’s likely a branch line issue. We can tell you for sure with a camera inspection.

How long does sewer line repair take?

Spot repairs: usually 1 day. Lining or bursting: 1-2 days. Full replacement: 2-5 days depending on length and access. We’ll give you a timeline before we start.

Will you have to dig up my yard?

Depends on the repair method. Lining requires minimal digging. Bursting needs access pits but not a full trench. Traditional replacement requires excavation along the line. We’ll explain the options and what each involves.

How much does sewer line repair cost?

It varies widely based on method, length, depth, and access. A spot repair is very different from a full replacement. We give upfront pricing after the camera inspection shows us what we’re dealing with.

Can tree roots be removed without replacing the pipe?

Sometimes. If the pipe is in good condition, we can cut the roots and treat the line to slow regrowth. If roots have damaged the pipe, repair or replacement is needed. The camera tells us which situation you have.

How long will the repair last?

Properly done repairs last decades. Pipe lining has a 50+ year lifespan. New PVC or ABS pipe can last 100+ years. We warranty our work and stand behind it.